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When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.